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    September 28

    美丽的错

    藏语中,把湖叫做“措”,tshuo。
     
    第一个见到的湖,是在青藏铁路上见到的错那湖。到达错那湖前很长时间,可爱的列车员大叔就告诉了我们这些第一次进藏的“平原人”这个消息,还和我们一起守在窗户边等待错那湖的出现。湖边很大一片范围都是湿地,或者是沼泽,不像我们常见的湖边分明~ 湖上有水鸟掠过,远处云朵压得很低,仿佛挨着湖面。
     
    巴松措位于林芝八一镇附近,湖水翠绿晶莹,像一块水晶。到达巴松措的时间是清晨,阳光灿烂但不刺眼,空气清凉。还没有多少游人到这里,湖面上也没有游船。小风一吹,湖面微微有点波纹,衬着远山绿树经幡,怎么看都看不够。湖心岛河岸边由两个浮桥连接,按照藏族人顺时针的习俗,我们从左边的浮桥上岛,再从右边的浮桥出岛。在浮桥的间隙处,有小鱼在几乎透明的湖水里游来游去。湖心岛上有一所寺院,供奉着莲花生大师的愤怒化身。大殿中燃着酥油灯,刚开始我还真闻不惯这酥油的味道,感觉酥油随着灯的燃烧弥漫在整个空气中,无孔不入,都能渗透到身体里去。在这里,我也第一次见到了右旋白海螺。
     
    见到羊卓雍措是在海拔4979米的岗巴拉山口。有了过米拉山口的痛苦经历,大家在岗巴拉山口下车时都小心翼翼,说话轻声细语。但是当羊卓雍措在群山之中展现出她优美身姿的时候,所有人都忘乎所以了。在藏族人心里,羊卓雍措是仙女散落的绿松石耳坠,孔雀蓝的湖水,狭长同时又宽广的湖面夹在群山、白云和冰川之间,虽然不能看到全貌,但阳光下的羊卓雍措还是让我们每个人都发疯,完全忘记了海拔、氧气这些无聊的东西。在能够看到湖的山坡上,大家摆各种pose拍照,也疯狂地拍羊湖。云朵在湖中投下影子,随着云朵位置的不断变换,羊湖也姿态万千,时而深沉,时而靓丽,水面上还有群山和冰川的倒影。如果不是身临其境,真的很难理解为什么可以用秀丽来形容这个面积有西湖70倍的高原湖泊。
     
    离开西藏前的最后一站,是“天湖”纳木措。在藏区,所有的措都是一位仙女的化身,纳木措也不例外,她的身边陪伴的是她的丈夫——念青唐古拉山。两人互相依靠,互相衬托,更显出山的雄伟和湖的美丽。纳木措湖水一样的冰冷清澈,湖边到处都是玛尼堆。在湖边,我和一只白色的牦牛一起玩了一小会儿,它还带着我走进了圣湖。小牦牛的眼睛也像是水晶一样,非常平静,不知道是不是这高原的所有生灵都如此纯净。在纳木措的时候并不是晴空万里,湖的一边被乌云笼罩着,湖水显得有些黯淡,但放眼远观,远处蓝色的湖水还是在阳光下闪闪发光。湖水并不是一直都那么平静,偶尔一只野鸭也会从湖中钻出来,惬意地游上几圈,又一头扎进冰冷的湖水,半天找不到踪影。这时乌云渐渐开始堆积,在靠近湖对岸的地方下起了雨,远远看去雾蒙蒙一片。但另一边的湖面上空依旧艳阳高照。这景象只有在梦里才能看到。.

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